So this time around, my main focus will be on the legendary Super Fuzz (Baby Crying, FY-6) circuit and how it evolved over its decade-long production run. Luckily Shin-ei did us all a favor of not only putting date stamps on their pedals, but also making changes in a typically linear and chronological fashion. So I put together this list of the most easily identifiable "rules" and what to look for. There are a few others that will not be mentioned here, but trust me, this should be more than satisfactory.
*we are going to jump around a bit in the timeline, but know that everything you see here has been determined by going through hundreds of photos of hundreds of Super Fuzzes and organizing each nerdy detail into an even nerdier database...
Alright, let's go.
This only lasted two years, and I would guess that going back to a flat surface to limit production costs was the main reason.
What most people don't know is that they didn't start using them until May of 1973. Now while you will see these on a lot of Shin-ei pedals through to 1979, they're not the only switches they used in that time.
Another interesting fact, is that Shin-ei had been using this same exact board in their (v3) Psychedelic Machines since at least 1972 (and possibly earlier. I have to do a bit more research). So it's likely that again to save money, they just streamlined using the same PCB for each.
It was introduced in January of 1973, the same moment they changed the brand's name from "Companion" to "Shin-ei Companion". And most likely as a result, just 5 months later this version of the switch would be gone.
The previous versions had no indicators for battery usage, but instead featured a small black "Made In Japan" sticker in the same spot.
The 3rd (and most common) version of the PCB has the empty slots where a trimpot would be, and also an extra green film capacitor further down on the board.
On thing to note about this, is that the three different PCB's, while I do believe were created in order, seem to have all been used concurrently with each other from 1967 - 1969. So for now, this should not be taken an indicator of date purely on its own.
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As I stated above, this is by no means all of the "rules" for dating your Super Fuzzes. Circuit-based details like types and values of every component also changed over time, as did manufacturer labeling on the bottom of the PCB's.
Another important thing to note, is that you will see pedals that violate these rules. And virtually 99% of them are from some type of repair; switched out bottom plates with the wrong date codes, replaced footswitches from the wrong time period, replaced circuit boards from a less desirable branding to a previously non-working more desirable branding, etc.
Luckily though, the vast majority will have two or more of these hallmarks and confirm for sure the round-about year it was made. And this is the hope here; that future you will come across a Super Fuzz for sale and with only a couple poorly shot photos, will be able to determine which version you are looking at.
Now if that version means it's "better" or not, is purely up to you. 😁
*if you'd like to dig even deeper into Super Fuzz land, check out this post from a while back that highlights the various OEM brandings throughout the years.
Thanks for reading,-ed
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